Categories: Nagpur

Cycling in Melghat, take care of tribes, life lessons and other stories

A group of 7 decide to pursue their passion and profession.
The result is rejuvenating for all.
The cyclists are made aware of every dormant sinew and also the poor health conditions of the tribals in the remote region of breath-taking MelghatI pedal my way laboriously, my heart galloping faster than the wild horses in any western movie and me cursing my foolish mind to take this trip, as I climb, actually crawl my way (if at all it’s possible to do so on a cycle; I take the credit for being the first to do so) on the serpentine, winding road climbing up to Kokaru (MP) from the picturesque Ghatang village in Maharashtra’s Melghat region.I hate the very moment when I agreed with my friends to take on this cycling trip.
My body is drenched with sweat in the hot and humid climate at three in the afternoon of July 8.
My leg is beginning to give me signals of its dissent by sending few sharp cramps from my calf to my knee and hip and I’m all ready to give up when suddenly the road takes a sharp blind curve and it is the moment when magic happens.A chilly blast of wind hits me head on and brings with it a panorama I can never forget… we are at a height, flanked by lush green valleys on both sides and a misty mass of fog and clouds climbing in a hurry towards the road to welcome us to the magical land that is Melghat.All the fatigue is gone in a flash and is replaced by a feeling of belonging to this surreal dreamland.
The heart winning over the head, mocking at it in the ‘ I told you so’ way.
I’m blessed to experience this.It has been our passion to go on cycling trips to places far and near and when the opportunity came to plan a trip to Melghat we jumped at it.
Shailesh and Ramya Nisal, Kiran and Anupama Belsare, Rajesh and Ritika Singhvi and myself, started from Nagpur on the morning of July 8 and reached Paratwada (approximately 200km).
We were warmly welcomed by Chotubhau Varangaonkar and his family.
From Paratwada, we proceded to Ghatang where our cycles had already reached.
After a wholesome lunch provided by Aarti Amte, we were ready to cycle with Anupama backing us in the support vehicle throughout the trip.However, nothing had prepared us for the short but extreme climb to Kokaru.
Believing that well begun is half done we were not to be shaken so easily.
The moment of magic changed everything and soon we were atop the mountain, savouring the most delicious rabdi Melghat is so famous for.
Our bodies and minds rejuvenated; we cycled the rest of the way to the picturesque Kokaru forest rest house.
Set up on the hill, this place offers a great view of the valley all around and it takes no time to get lost in this enchanting world.
Having settled and changed into more comfortable clothing, we set out to explore the surrounding area.
Not paying heed to the warning ‘beware of bears’, we made our way towards a high view point only to be greeted by a heavy shower and strong winds.
Soaked to the bones and shivering, we made our way back to the rest house.
Apart from disrupting the power supply, the rains also washed away our plans of sleeping out in the open.
Not to be thwarted, we put out our tents, albeit in the veranda and made the most of it.
Friday morning (July 9) brought a clear sky and a fresh start.
Well rested, we were ready to move to our next destination, Katkumbh, back in Maharashtra, where a medical camp for locals residents was already planned.
The ride promised to be either downhill or flat but what was not expected was that much of the road was under construction, making cycling very demanding.
As soon as one gets down from Kokaru towards Khamala, one is treated to the awe-inspiring sight of the windmills.
Rising up in the sky, the huge windmills with their unimaginably long blades are a sight one can never forget.
We were not sure whether their constant humming sound was an invitation or warning for us to not enter their kingdom, but we chose to believe that they were welcoming us with their baritones and pedalled on.
Almost 70 windmills, spread all over, as far as your eyes can reach, are a proof of man’s endeavours to harness the power of nature.
But at the same time a reminder of how miniscule we are before the endless energy of nature.
Can we really put reins on it?At Katkumbh, we were accorded a very warm welcome by the PHC staff led by enthusiastic Dr Swati and her colleagues.
Soon the arena was set and we were off to do what we like as much as cycling…our medical profession.
The plight of people living in these remote areas with bare minimum health care support makes you aware of the privileges we take for granted in our day-to-day life.
From common ailments to advanced cancer, there were about 200 people waiting patiently for their turn to be seen and given basic treatment by the ‘sheherwale’ doctors.
We were also joined by Dr Kavita Satav, who, with her husband Aashish, has been doing outstanding medical work in these forest areas for the last so many years.
Only now, could we understand the challenges they must be facing in their task of providing quality healthcare to th most needy tribals.After a little rest in the afternoon, we set out again for a trek to a nearby hill.
Going uphill was like doing ten treadmill tests at a time.
But the view from the top was truly amazing, not to forget the added assurance of a healthy heart as a bonus.
At night, we could sleep out in the open in our tent, thus ticking one more item on the ‘to do list’.
On Saturday, July 10, we were set to travel from Katkumbh to Chunkhadi, one of the most remote areas of Melghat.
The day started with a hearty breakfast at Rakesh Rathore, our local coordinator’s house.
The ride took us through the jungles of Melghat with almost non-existent roads.
Pedalling on the gravelled, stony roads does have an advantage of whole-body massage but only for some time, after which it becomes a torture.Somehow, we managed to reach Chunakhadi.
This is a small village inhabited by the tribals, most of whom speak only the local language ‘Korku’.
Listening to their problems, translated by the staff of PHC, we managed to give some medical advice to about 50 patients.
By this time, the challenges of travelling through these remote forest areas were getting to us.
Having given up on the ‘luxuries’ of mobile network and internet, now with lack of basic urban needs like water, electricity, toilets and beds to sleep on, our bravado had begun to ebb.
The fact that the road we were to cycle to Semadoh next day was something which would make the previously travelled roads seem like an expressway.
We decided that it was prudent to call off the last leg of our plan and turn back.Luckily, our friend Parikshit Janai had travelled all the way from Nagpur on the same morning, just to do drone shooting of our rides and his car was available to take us back along with Anupama’s car.
Having finished our work and relished the simple but most awesome lunch brought by Kavita, we bid farewell to the locals and the coordinators and drove back to the comfort of our houses in Nagpur.This trip presented many challenges but that was by our choice.
When we look at the challenges faced by the tribals and rural people from these remote areas each and every day and still see the peace and content with which they live their life, it surely raises a lot of questions about what we are and what we seek.
That was our big life lesson from these three unforgettable days.(The writer is a urologist, andrologist and transplant surgeon)

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